An Asscher cut diamond is a step or trap cut stone with rectangular facets that emphasize depth and draw your eye into the stone. While it has an overall square shape similar to radiant or princess cuts, its corners are cropped creating an octagonal shape. These antique style cuts were popular in the 1920’s and are making a comeback, particularly to those who love vintage style.
A Brief History of the Asscher Cut
Created and patented in 1902, this cut was named after the brothers who founded the Asscher Diamond Company. During WWII the Asscher family was deported from the Netherlands and confined in concentration camps. After the war ended in 1945, with only 10 family members remaining, Louis and Joseph Asscher sought to rebuild their business. Queen Juliana of Holland granted them a royal title as a tribute to their important role in the diamond industry and the Royal Asscher Diamond Company was born.
The original cut created by Joseph Asscher had 58 facets, and although it was first created in 1902, this cut gained popularity in the 1920’s as it fit perfectly into the popular Art Deco fashion of the time. This is the main reason this cut is referred to as a “vintage” or “antique” style. In 1999 Louis’s sons, Edward and Joop Asscher modified the original design to include more facets which created more vibrancy and brilliance and the Royal Asscher cut was born.
The Royal Asscher cut was developed using modern diamond cutting methods with the intention of improving the overall cut and quality of the traditional Asscher cut. The crown was raised and more facets were added creating a total of 78 facets, compared to original 58 facets. The brilliance and classic look of the original design was retained, which is why the Asscher cut has made a major comeback in the past decade.
What to Look for in an Asscher Cut
Asscher cuts look similar to emerald cuts but they’re square not rectangular. This cut features large step facets and a high crown that produces a unique brilliance that resembles an endless hallway with reflective mirrors. Although it’s considered a square shape, it’s somewhat octagonal since all four corners are cropped, which isn’t noticeable once the stone is mounted into a four-prong setting, unlike a true octagon.
The plain broad facets on an Asscher cut allow an unobstructed look straight into the stone meaning it’ll display more inclusions, so we recommend starting with a VS2 clarity or higher. Another consideration is the color grade in your Asscher cut diamond. Since this cut lacks brilliance or sparkle compared to some others, this style cut focuses on clarity and luster. We recommend not going below color H; if you’re hoping to have no color visible, stick with color D-F.
Because this cut isn’t as brilliant as other diamond shapes, it works well with a halo setting that can be used to add extra sparkle and shine to the center stone. If you want some inspiration, you can check out these celebrity engagement rings that feature an Asscher cut:
- Elizabeth Taylor probably owned the most famous Asscher cut diamond ring which featured the Krupp diamond, a 33.19 carat stunner
- Jessica Alba was given a 5-carat Asscher cut engagement ring by Cash Warren with a diamond halo and pave band
- Kate Hudson used to wear a gorgeous Asscher cut ring with an Art Deco style halo given to her by now-ex Chris Robinson
- Zooey Deschanel sported a 3 carat Asscher cut diamond ring from now-ex-husband Ben Gibbard
- Ashlee Simpson had an Asscher cut halo engagement ring featuring a 4 carat center stone when she and Pete Wentz were together
- Gwyneth Paltrow’s Asscher diamond engagement ring from Chris Martin was set on a delicate micro pave band
- Pippa Middleton has an Art Deco-inspired Asscher diamond ring with a geometric halo
- Kate Bosworth’s has an elegant Asscher cut engagement ring with baguettes in an Art Deco design